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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.